4th Jan. Early start, being picked up around 8am to join a coachload of day trippers off to see Lago Todos Los Santos (all saints lake). It was an hour's drive to the lake, but we had quite a few pick ups before we actually hit the road to Petrohue. The route out of P Varas took along Llanquehue lake, where we had walked last night. Then out into some open country side, passing a few Estancias. We have a 30 min stop at some waterfalls (Salitar de Petrohue), but this does seem a bit of a money making exercise as the falls don't really do anything for me. Maybe it is because I feel we are on the wrong side of the river so don't get the best views of the falls, although having the volcano in the background does improve the view. Lots of people are out there with their cameras taking shots individually or in family groups. There does seem to be quite a mix of people, although not so many Chileans.
It is a short drive from the falls along a gravel road to the dock where we are to board the ferry, a trendy large catarmaran, to the other side of the lake. There is one company that has a monopoly on the ferry so you can't really haggle for anything. It is a 2 hour trip across the lake, which is also called the emerald lake, due to the deep colour. I have to admit the colour is striking as is the view of Osorno volcano as we head east. Having read some trip reviews, we do appear to be lucky to be having a lovely blue sky with not too many clouds. However, it is pretty hot. The one annoying thing that we have to suffer is the horseflies. These rather substantive creatures only come out for a few weeks of the year, and they are attracted to dark clothing. So dark backpacks are a serious attraction to these insects that are like flying cockroaches. They don't sting, but do give a little irritating bite. Travelling across the lake reminds me of some of my travels whilst living in Switzerland, with tree covered hillsides rising steeply from the lake side.
We arrive at our destination Puella, hoping to get away from the large crowds. We decide to walk the 1/2 mile up to the place where there are 2 hotels and not much else. It would have been a nice walk had it not been for the constant presence of horseflies and the heat. Up to Puella and we grab a bite to eat in what is a clinical restaurant. By clinical I mean, it is a buffet service, within a large hall and pine wooden tables with no atmosphere at all. What is becoming quite clear, is that this whle trip is a well managed monopolistic exercise, with Puella being nothing more than a tourist only zone. On the boat, the guides from each coach were trying to sell tickets to do a variety of things, from horseriding, 4x4 safari, through to helecopter rides over the volcano. It is almost impossible to do anything yourself. As the boat doesn't leave for 4 1/2 hours you are almost forced to buy tickets. We decide not to and after having a bite to eat, we ask about hiking opportunities, only to be told that there aren't any!
We decide to take a gentle stroll, up to the local waterfall. At least it gets us away from the horseflies, although a few wasps replace them. The waterfall is actually a glorified trickle, maybe it is just the wrong time of year. However, we decide to park our arses on logs in the shade to drift away for a while. After a short while, the noise of people riding on guide-ropes through the canopy fades away and I am left with the sound of cascading water and the odd bird singing. A beautiful irridescent blue/green lizard about 10cm long settles down on a rock nearby to enjoy the sunshine. On this occasion, not having a camera is definitely a good thing. Walk back down to the camp and find that it is still uncomfortably hot when not in shade and the horseflies are back. So decide to head up to another waterfall which is about an hour away. Mandy is struggling with the heat and the steep climb so I head off on my own. It is hot and sticky even in the shade and to be honest the waterfall is a real disappointment, more so than the first one. So we head back to the jetty, surrounded by horseflies. Watch some of the local kids having a swim, does look appealing but no trunks with me and too many others around to just dive in in my boxers. Glad to get on board and into the air-conditioned cabin.
Quiet journey back, with the clouds coming in and covering the top of the volcano. We do stop on the way to pick up a few locals from a small boat. Seems like this is part of the service for the locals. Long journey home and we dump our stuff before going out for a quick bite to eat as we have another long day ahead of us tomorrow.
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